How to buy an e-scooter without regrets

Amp-hours alone don't tell you which battery stores more energy

You have two spec sheets open. One says 48V 15Ah, the other 52V 22.5Ah. How much battery is really in there? Without doing the maths most people guess wrong, and then they're annoyed about the range.

This checklist goes through what to look out for when ordering and what to do in the first weeks. Which model suits your use is covered in the article Which e-scooter is right for me?. This one is about the buying process itself.

Reading the spec sheet: three numbers that trick you

1. Compare watt-hours, not amp-hours

Amp-hours alone say nothing as long as the voltage is missing. Volts times amp-hours gives watt-hours, and that's the number you can compare between models.

The T3 with 15.6 Ah and the Joyor T10 with 18 Ah look close on paper. In watt-hours they're about 330 Wh apart, because one runs on 48V and the other on 60V. That's exactly the difference that gets lost in a quick comparison.

2. Peak power is not continuous power

The Joyor T10 lists 2×1000 W and 3800 W peak. The Teverun Blade GT 2 Pro has 4900 W peak, the Dualtron Thunder 3 even 10,800 W peak. Peak means: briefly, when starting off or on a climb. Continuously, the drive delivers less.

If you read the peak figure as the normal state, you expect acceleration that's only available for a few seconds, while also counting on a range that only comes from economical riding. Both expectations can't come true at once.

The road-legal CH editions list 2×250 W from Bosch. That makes 500 W rated power, exactly at the legal limit for light mopeds. Keeping rated and peak power apart matters: the same models also state a much higher peak power that's only available briefly. For the approval power limit, rated power is what counts, while the peak figure describes the short-term power reserve.

3. "Up to" means best case

Range and top speed are manufacturer figures, not measurements. Some spec sheets are more honest than others. The Joyor T10 says 30 to 75 km, the Boyueda S5-11 100 to 120 km. These spreads show how much riding style, hills, temperature and body weight matter.

A figure like "up to 60 km" is missing the lower limit. It still exists. Never plan your commute on the maximum, plan with reserve, and winter won't catch you out.

What's often missing from the spec sheet

Four details matter in everyday use and are rarely prominent: folded dimensions, tyre type, brakes and splash protection. Without folded dimensions you don't know whether the scooter fits in your car boot. Pneumatic tyres ride more comfortably and absorb edges, solid rubber never goes flat. With brakes you want to know whether there's a disc at the front and rear or only at the rear. And a device parked outside at night should be protected against splashes.

The protection class is the detail most often missing, and its absence is information in itself. The KuKirin G2 states IP54, the Teverun Blade Mini Ultra IPX6, the KuKirin T3 on the other hand "not confirmed". If there's nothing there or it says "not confirmed", the manufacturer doesn't guarantee protection and you carry the risk in the wet. The same goes for missing folded dimensions or unclear tyre type: ask instead of hoping.

Before ordering: go through seven points

1. Availability. A product listed online isn't automatically in stock. The KuKirin G2 VMP and KuKirin G4 currently can't be ordered, the Boyueda M2 shows zero stock, and the Boyueda S5-11 is on pre-order with delivery from the end of August 2026. Ask about the date before you plan.
2. Delivery time and shipping costs. Shipping costs are shown at checkout and can vary depending on the order. Delivery usually takes 3 to 7 working days. According to the shipping terms, there are no additional customs or import costs for you.
3. Returns. The point that surprises most people: in Switzerland there's no statutory right of return. A return is possible within 14 days, but only with written approval and only if the device is unused, unassembled and in its original packaging. A scooter you've ridden once can't go back. So decide before ordering, not after.
4. Assembly. Devices arrive new and in original packaging, with charger, tool kit and manual. Assembly takes about 15 minutes per model, usually aligning and tightening the handlebar. But note: once you've assembled or ridden it, a return is ruled out.
5. Warranty. New devices come with a two-year period. That also covers material and manufacturing defects in the battery. Normal capacity loss from use and ageing, on the other hand, counts as wear and not automatically as a defect. We check every case individually and, where possible, look for a customer-friendly solution. The current terms in the shop are binding.
6. Spare parts and charger. Every model comes with a charger in the box, you only need a second one if the charging time holds you back. We order brake pads, inner tubes and controllers on request. What we're not: a service point with a workshop. If you don't want to wrench yourself, ask a bike workshop nearby beforehand whether they take e-scooters. That's an honest limitation and better clarified before buying than after.
7. Total budget. Add a lock, helmet and maybe a second charger. 100 to 150 francs extra is realistic if you don't want to skip safety and theft protection.

The first week: five things that really matter

A new scooter is a device that settles in. Screws work loose, tyres lose air, brakes need a few stops before they bite. The first week decides whether that turns into a problem.

• Retighten screws. Check the folding mechanism, handlebar clamp, mudguards and brake caliper after the first 20 to 50 km. Hand-tight is better than brute force here: overtightened screws in aluminium strip, and then the repair costs more than the loose screw. If your manual gives torque values, stick to them.
• Check tyre pressure. Too little air costs range and increases the risk of pinch flats on edges. Check weekly, not monthly. The target value is usually printed on the tyre sidewall, otherwise in the manual. Never pump above that value, even if more pressure rolls easier in the short term.
• Treat the battery sensibly. Charge after riding instead of leaving the battery empty for days. Follow your model's manual for the first charge and temperature limits. A modern lithium-ion battery doesn't need several full charge and discharge cycles to "break it in".
• Bed in the brakes. New disc brakes need a few firm stops from moderate speed before they reach full effect. Do this in an empty area, not in traffic.
• First ride somewhere quiet. Use an empty area where riding is allowed. Test the braking distance, turning circle and how the device reacts to a short throttle input. With a non-road-legal performance model, stay on private property.

Accessories that shouldn't wait

Two things are better bought right away: a lock and visibility in traffic. The rest can follow.

For theft protection you have two approaches. The compact folding lock for 49.90 francs attaches the scooter to a fixed object. The 110 dB alarm disc brake lock for 30 francs blocks the brake disc and makes noise, but doesn't stop anyone from carrying the device away. If you park the scooter outside, combine both.

The GUB Pro 3 phone mount for 25 francs solves an everyday problem: navigating without a phone in your hand. Set the route before riding and stop to operate it, so the display doesn't distract you from traffic.

The 2 to 8 A fast charger from 89 francs is worth it if you want to charge twice a day or need a second charging spot. Pick exactly the variant for your scooter on the product page, so voltage, charging current and plug are right. If you're unsure, send us your model and a photo of your current charger before ordering.

Useful, but not yet orderable in the shop: a helmet, a handlebar bag, a battery compressor for tyre pressure and a weatherproof cover if the scooter is parked outside. There's no helmet requirement in Switzerland, FEDRO explicitly calls the helmet recommended but not mandatory. Our opinion: wear one. A fall at 20 km/h on asphalt quickly ends up on your head, and reflexes don't help there.

The five most common beginner mistakes when riding

• Using only one brake. Practise using both brakes gradually and progressively in an empty area where riding is allowed. That way you learn your model's braking distance without abruptly locking a wheel.
• Full throttle when starting off. Models with high peak power pull hard. If your weight is at the back, the front wheel lifts. Feather the throttle, knees slightly bent, eyes forward.
• Taking kerbs unprepared. Small wheels can bottom out. Avoid kerbs where possible. If there's no other way, slow to walking pace and cross them as close to a right angle as possible; if you're unsure, get off.
• Underestimating the wet. Braking distance and grip drop significantly, tram tracks and road markings get slippery. Brake earlier, lean less.
• Riding on the pavement. That's prohibited. Cycle paths and cycle lanes are allowed, otherwise the road. Riding between pedestrians on the pavement risks fines and accidents.

Plus one mistake that ends expensively: tuning. Removing the limiter from a 20 km/h model is illegal and can void road approval. In case of damage it can also cause problems with insurance. If you want more speed, buy a performance model and ride it only on suitable private property.

When you'd better not buy

Your next step

Take ten minutes and write down three things: the longest distance you want to ride without charging, the maximum weight you can lift, and your budget including accessories. With these three numbers you'll find the right model in the article Which e-scooter is right for me?, or send them to us and we'll go through them with you.